PFW 2015 Summary Report: Favourite Shows

Dear readers,

Paris Fashion Week marks the end of the amazing Fashion Month that has just passed, and I cannot wait for you to read this report on my favourite collections! Nonetheless, before you keep reading, it is only fair I warn you of the possibility of you experiencing a strong craving and urge to hop on a plane and fly to ‘Paree’, the city of love… If you fulfil your craving (which there is a slight probability you will after perusing these amazing collections), a proposed itinerary would be to begin with a tour of the Rodin and delight yourself with the sculpture garden. Next, why not dance the night away in the Latin Quarter, or perhaps plan a trip to Versailles, while you sip wine along the Seine? (perfect, I know.. You’re welcome!). May I also suggest that for those of you whose piggy banks don’t allow for such trips, the film Midnight In Paris by Woody Allen would be a great substitute, and will definitely inspire you and leave you in a romantic state of mind whilst you fall in love with Paris. Now, I know you’re anxious to see the collections, but I could not proceed without first introducing this fashion week with the inspirational and iconic designer Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, better known as Coco Chanel. She was credited with freeing women from the constraints of corseted silhouette, and was responsible for the acceptance of a sportive, casual chic feminine look in the post WWI era. She, however, was more than a visionary designer, she was a prolific fashion creator and inspiration, and even today her design aesthetic in couture clothing, jewellery, handbags and fragrance is worshipped and classed as a benchmark of luxury and quality. Indeed, her signature scent Chanel No.5 has become an iconic product and it is not by chance that Chanel is the only fashion designer listed on Time Magazine’s list of the 100 most influential people of the 20th Century. With her lifelong determination, ambition, vision and energy, she achieved prominent success as both a businesswoman and as a social butterfly; therefore earning a coveted spot in my PFW report! Now that you are sufficiently inspired and in love with Paris, you are ready to read this report on my favourite collections from a dreamy week in Paris! Bisous!!

3rd March 

1. Anrealage

I decided to include this collection in my post due to its originality. When I was scanning through all the designer’s and the collections they presented this season, this one definitely caught my eye. Although it is far from being my favourite collection, if you look closely, the garments are extremely well executed and have a lot of thought and detail put into them. In addition, its dark eccentricity is alluring and I couldn’t help but include it!

2. Anthony Vaccarello

This collection is all about stars – almost every outfit has a shape of a star somewhere ( if you look closely, even their make-up was star-inspired!). The Belgium designer, reported backstage that because he’d been spending a lot of time in the US, its symbols have seeped into his subconscious; namely the brown suede (not shown here), the fringe, the bold eagle, the heavy-metal tubing (which in some states is considered a deadly weapon), and of course…the stars in the flag. But make no mistake, these stars were not like any other ordinary star, they were cleverly handled; their sharp angles were wedged into the thigh-high asymmetric hemlines, or outlined in suede or heavy-duty studs, or shown as sheer inserts! (Oh, and for those of you who are interested, the fashion star Donatella Versace was sat in the front row!). Overall, I think this was a very cool, young and inspiring collection!

4th March

1. Guy Laroche

This season, Guy Laroche (under the creativity of the new designer Adam Andrascik) presented a strong collection with new aesthetics. This collection is filled with biker jackets, trench coats, and knit dresses with a strong metallic element to them. It was a sharp and sexy collection with a combination of materials that are not usually seen together, such as velvet, denim and brocade. Overall, I think it worked, the collection clicked and the strong point were the biker jackets.

2. Rochas

The show notes cited this collection as being ‘the celebration of timeless elegance’ and I agree with this. There were a lot of classic pieces presented: intricate dresses, long well-tailored coats, and beautiful accessories to accompany this. The classic Chantilly lace was featured, and made everything pretty and feminine, a la Rochas style. Birds were also featured, which can represent freedom, or nature.. Either way, overall, this collection was very successful, and any women will be sure to represent timeless elegance in these clothes!

5th March

1. Balmain

  

I loved what Olivier Rousteing did with Balmain this season; everything was so fashionable and so tasteful, that I just want to wear everything! He managed to combine vintage colours and silhouettes (from the billowing chiffon jumpsuits, to the ruffled décolletage) and add a modern touch to them! There seemed to be a focus on proportion in this collection, from wide-leg ballooning trousers, to wide shouldered tops. In addition, there was a lot of flesh showing (even if hidden behind lace and sheer). This collection exuded fierceness, confidence, and sensuality – and I loved it!

2. Barbara Bui

Barbara Bui always presents a cool, classic, wearable collection; and this one was no different (in a good way of course!) She has a very specific vision of what she thinks a girl should dress and she delivers it perfectly. There is a large array of looks presented for various events: be it a night out, a cold winter day, or a combination of both! This season, she experimented well with hemlines and there was a lot of asymmetry seen in her dresses, adding a little extra flare to them! Overall, a really solid collection, which is very wearable!

2. Zadig and Voltaire

One word: Cool. I could just leave it at that and I’m sure you all would agree with me, but there is so much to say about this collection that I just couldn’t! Z&V are clearly targeting a hip, young girl who is ready to take the town and make it hers, and I’m sure everyone wants to be this girl, even as an alter ego (I know I do!). This collection had a lot of different elements to it; furs, hats, amazing mini-skirts, and cool-studded accessories! Overall, this is a very wearable collection with a defined target audience, and will definitely sell…a lot!

6th March

1. Christian Dior

In relation to his designs this season, the designer Raf Simmons said: “I wanted the collection to deal with nature and femininity in a different way(…) “Away from the garden and the flower to something more liberated, darker and more sexual.” Indeed, a lot of elements did create a sexual atmosphere such as the long latex legging boots with Lucite heels, and the sumptuous coats in tweeds and fur. This entire collection is very commercial and ready to wear; everything from the prints chosen to the tailoring of the outfits. Vogue fashion director Lucinda Chambers said: ‘There was a clarity of clothes there, it was unashamedly easy to wear, there was no apology for that and that’s where it strength lay. I thought it was so much to buy and so much to love.’ Personally, although I agree and see where she’s coming from with this statement, I always expect so much from CD designs that I was left wanting more. I felt that although the collection was strong, and the tailoring was impeccable, I wanted to see less commercial and RTW designs! A good collection nevertheless.

2. Isabel Marant

I must say, I loved Isabel Marant’s collection this season – it was like a mix of boho, eighties, and biker-style. There were a lot of high waist trousers, side-button jumpers and huge boyfriend-sized jackets (which I adored!). My favourite piece would have to be the over-the-knee boots; they are so detailed and simply exquisite (might just have to get a pair). Although this collection was very girly and actually reminded me of Spain (no surprise seeing as it is originally a Spanish brand), there was a twist towards the end of the show when sheer white and black dresses with lacing were seen – really on point! Overall, a really good collection!

3. Balenciaga

Tonight, Alexander Wang managed to create a blend between a couture-goddess and a street-princess… and I loved it! I strongly advise you to click on the images shown above (or actually go and have a look at the whole collection) to see a close-up of the amount of detail and finesse that each outfit has. Everything from the earrings to the shoes were beautifully embellished and detailed! This collection was elegant, prim, ladylike, and beautifully executed overall (definitely one of my favourites!)

7th March

1. Elie Saab

This collection had a very dark palette: with kaki, black, and dark red being the main colour. There was a lot of fur trim on coats, as well as gilded buttons. This collection was symbolic of a dark forest tale and it was in fact less whimsical, but more severe and dark; with defined waits and zips running down dresses. This collection was strong, powerful, and very well executed (if you look closely, the details are magnificent!). I would call it: Glamorous Wilderness.

2. Mugler

This collection was a fashion vortex spiralling down the catwalk! It was very angular, and it reminded me of masculine lines, whilst still being very feminine and sexy with a wide array of party dresses, and killer shoes! A key player in this collection were the turtlenecks with hardware details included in them, as well as slit overcoats with shining lapels. This collection was made for a cool girl ready to conquer the room!

3. Nina Ricci

This collection was very Nina Ricci, but with a layer of cool injected into it. It features plenty of day coats, midi skirts, tweed coats, and column silhouettes – i.e. elegance, charm and prim! All of this in a beautiful colour palette including camel, navy, and indigo tones. It was a very classy and grown-up collection, but with a touch of modernity with the addition of fringe, and feathers popping out of coats and dresses!

8th March

1. Chloe

This show was apparently dedicated to the International Women’s Day and I personally think this is a great dedicatory which combines with Chloe’s style, which is all about embracing, celebrating, and empowering women and their (our) femininity. This season, Chloe’s designs seemed to be very inspired by the 70s, with models wearing skinny little scarves tied around the neck of necks of plunging V-neck maxi dresses; natty waistcoats and billowing blouses, and little perky dresses with sheer frills! I loved this collection, especially how Chloe’s girl is represented as being romantic, feminine, and sexy; but also strong with a masculine tailoring!

2. Givenchy

Riccardo Tisci once said that the mark of a successful designer is having an identity, and after his numerous successful runway shows, including this one, it is safe to say, he has an identity (and a strong one too!). This collection was inspired by the Chola girl gangs in South America (which is evident by the face decorations worn by each model: hoops, study, pearls, false piercings; paired with slicked-back hair into looped plaints with gelled curled baby hairs sculpting their faces). Tisci also seemed to have combined this with the dark poetic spirit of the Victorian period. This collection was both artistic and feminine – from flocked frock coats, and matador jackets, to deeply romantic dresses with cut-outs, and skirts spliced with velvet and silk at the seams. Despite me thinking this collection was extremely well executed and beautiful, not everyone will feel the same way. However, it will be spoken about and generate conversation; which shows that Tisci is NEVER boring, and people will always be waiting to see what he does next.

3. John Galliano

This season, John Galliano unveiled a bold new collection with enchanting patterns, tamed eccentricity, and elegance. His designs are very wearable, however they are far from being common. In fact, they look to classy and tasteful, that any woman wearing these designs would definitely turn heads! The colour palette is mostly dark, with gold and silver notes here and there to accentuate the outfits. Above all, the designs are all impeccably made, and definitely suited for a cool, self-assured girl.

9th March

1. Hermes

This was designer’s Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s debut collection for the luxury house, and in my opinion she did a great job. She delivered on what the loyal Hermes customers expected, but also added a personal touch to the collection. There was an equestrian feel to the whole collection with red striped double-faced cashmere blanket coats with quilted under layers, and exquisite quilted leather coats. Overall, it felt very luxurious, and left us wanting to see what the designer has prepared next for us!

2. Saint Laurent

This collection reminds me of a teenage rebelle fleur or a glammed-up party girl going in for the kill (metaphorically speaking, of course). There was a lot going on in this collection; from tulle prom dresses paired with masculine tweed blazers, to super skinny ‘Le Smoking” and leather party dresses! Although we have seen these looks before, this collection seems to include a lot more detail, making it more appealing to the customers!

3. Sonia Rykiel

For those of you who have seen the designers’ previous collection, where she accentuated the sass and sensuality she learned at Louis Vuitton and Prada, you might be slightly disappointed at this collection. However, I still think it was a successful one, with a 60s feel to it (it seems that many designers are inspiring themselves in Vintage clothing!) and a cool vintage look! In my opinion, the strong point in this collection is the outerwear: fur gilets, and coats, as well as classic English-rose coats!

10th March

1. Chanel

I don’t think there is a better place on Earth to spend a fine Tuesday morning than at the Brasserie Gabrielle (sigh..). As always, the runway design was as tasteful as the clothes worn by the models. In this collection models were either styled as ‘boys’ or ‘girls’ and there was a variation of looks seen, arguably as creative now as they were back in the day of Miss Coco. As well as the style being typical Chanel (with the tweed skirt suit and dresses dresses) with a slightly updated version, another thing that remains is that the clothes are impeccably made, and fit perfectly.

2. Valentino

This season, Valentino presented one of my favourite collections, with huge variation and undeniable style (as you can probably tell by the amount of pictures I posted!). This collection is a celebration of sensuality and independence, and this came in the form of medieval fairytale bliss. There were caped dresses, tunics, and oversized jumpers (after all, this is a RTW collection), as well as elegant dresses decorated with different motifs (ranging from monochrome stripes to romantic reds). Necks were gently tied with dainty scarves that brought a hint of femininity. In a slightly different note, although I haven’t posted their pictures, Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson (aka, the Zoolander duo)  walked down the catwalk (naturally leaving the crowd wild!) seemingly announcing the return on a Zoolander 2? Anyway back to reality… a stunning collection overall, which I recommend you taking a closer look at!

3. Alexander McQueen

This season, McQueen’s collection reminded me of Helena Bonham Carter meets Sweeney Todd meets Edward Scissorhands (incidentally, she features in both films!). As a slight P.S. it is interesting to note that the show staged at the Conciergerie in Paris, the vaulted chambers where Marie Antoinette was imprisoned before being beheaded, and the venue for Lee McQueen’s first show in Paris thirteen years ago, where models walked with wolves on leashes, examined the beauty of those roses. This collection embodies a beautiful mix of vintage decay and dark romance. Despite this collection being provocative and powerful, it is also gentle and feminine; a combination difficult to achieve, but when achieved results in a beautiful artistic collection, as is this one. A wilting bouquet was the image featured on the show invitation, and indeed the fading rose was a recurring pattern, captured extremely well in layered petals of whisper-weight organza.

11th March

1. Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton’s collecion this season seems to perfectly combine rock ‘n’ roll and vintage-y retro style. Coincidently, these are the quintessential ingredients necessary to generate the perfect “cool girl”. This collection felt fresh, young, and exciting; it is safe to say that I was definitely craving a lot of these clothes! Most of all, I am desperate to get my hands on the dreamy leather mini-skirts and the perfectly executed coats! In general, this collection was very beautiful and detailed, and included the signature Damier Louis Vuitton check in the impeccably tailored jackets and skirts.

2. Moncler Gamme Rouge

 

This was definitely one of my favourite collections. Moncler specialises in outerwear mainly, and these coats were absolutely amazing! I posted so many pictures because I simply could not choose, and I wanted you all to see a greater variety and fall in love with them as I did! This collection is definitely inspired in equestrian fashion (which is always classy and chic!) and has no doubt killer helmets that will help you win the race (or at least make you the best dress girl out in the field!). Despite there being many classic looks and patterns, there are also many innovative creations displayed in this collection such as the cute impermeable skirt (second picture) or the placement of the furs! Adorable is the word!

3. Miu Miu

This season, Miu Miu girls are very quirky, individual-looking, multi-coloured beauties – with emphasis on the multi-colour! There are indeed wild colour combinations: from python kitten heels with multi-straps, to heavy wool coats and printed shirts; this collection is perhaps the most lively one of the entire fashion month! In fact, even leopard prints were reimagined in bright colours. The whole collection looked very graphic and optical and I am certain that come Autumn, it will be hard to pick a favourite coat! Overall, an extremely well tailored collection with hard to pull-off combinations (although I’m sure that all you fashionistas out there can pull off anything!!)

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Alas, we came to an end of yet another amazing and full of talent, Fashion Month. There was a lot of creativity displayed and fantastic designs that I cannot wait to wear/see people wearing! As always, Paris proved to be very tasteful and classy and it’s safe to say that this week was magnificent (is it ok for me to miss Paris already?!). As I have mentioned in my three previous reports, I can only feature so many collections and designers, but there was really a lot of great talent this season so I suggest you go and have a look at the rest of the shows if you wish!  If you disagree with my choices, or think I missed out some critically sensational collections, don’t hesitate and leave a comment below, I look forward to reading them! I leave you with a quote (as always..): 

“Dress shabbily and they remember the dress; dress impeccably and they remember the woman.” – Coco Chanel

Love, 

Mimi ♡